What we diagnose first
- Hums but does not spin: the flywheel is jammed by a bone, pit or utensil.
- Silent: the thermal reset on the bottom has tripped, or the switch or outlet has no power.
- Leaks from the top: the sink flange has lost its putty seal.
- Leaks from the side: the dishwasher inlet or discharge tube gasket has failed.
- Leaks from the bottom: the internal seal has worn through, which usually means replacement.
Freeing a jam safely
Once the wall switch is off and the cord is unplugged, we insert a hex key into the socket at the centre of the unit's underside and work the flywheel back and forth. The object is removed with pliers from above, never with a hand. After pressing the reset button and restoring power, we run cold water and test.
Leaks and drain problems
A loose mounting ring can be retightened, but a flange leak means dropping the unit, cleaning the old putty and resetting the flange. Slow draining on the disposal side often comes from ground food packed in the trap and the wall arm; we take the trap apart and run a cable through to the stack. Our kitchen drain cleaning page covers that line in more detail.
Repair or replace
A unit with a leaking body, a rusted grind chamber or a motor that keeps tripping is usually done. If it is more than about ten years old, a new disposal matched to the same mounting ring often goes in quickly; see disposal installation.
Signs you need this job
- A steady drip from the spout
- Water under the cabinet after use
- Handles grinding, wobbling or turning past the stop
- One lonely tap running weak while others are fine
On the job, in order
- Close the angle stops or the main
- Pull the cartridge, stem or valve body
- Fit new parts and reset the trim
- Run both temperatures and check every connection
Ready when you are. One call, a real plumber, an arrival window.
Call now(365) 517-6415